Wild New Zealand

What follows is a bit of natural history, with photos and short movies we took of wildlife we have seen here. You can also click on the embedded links for more information.

Lake Wanaka pano shot

New Zealand (Aotearoa, in Māori) became a continent 60-85 million years ago, before mammals evolved. This means all mice, rats, dogs, cats, sheep, antelope, etc. were introduced intentionally or unintentionally by humans when ancestors of the Māori arrived approximately 1000 years ago, and then Europeans in the early 1800's. 

Jeremy enjoying some tug-of-war with the island's most popular dog breed

Together, these new residents (people and the animals they brought) decimated approximately 45% of the native fauna, including the giant moa- a bird that dwarfed the ostrich, and its predator the Haast's eagle, which was large enough to carry off a small child according Māori oral history. 

 

Jeremy and friends with model of moa and egg

Before people arrived, New Zealand’s vertebrates (animals with spines, unlike insects or snails or other animals with exoskeletons) were exclusively those that could fly or swim across the ocean. Many of these pioneers had descendants that would be unique in the world - either retaining characteristics that were lost elsewhere, or by developing new traits, causing them to become new species. 

For example, the parrots in New Zealand are either green (keas) or brown (kakas), in stark contrast with their brightly colored new world relatives. Without mammal predators (who can’t see color), raptors such as the giant eagle (who can) exert the greatest selective pressure. It is way too dangerous to be bright red or blue!

Look at the wingspan on this big boy!

One of the most surprising animals we have seen so far is the royal albatross (click here for a live feed of the population we visited). This is one of the rare giant birds to survive here, albeit just barely. We saw them at a conservation area in Dunedin- they have an astonishing wingspan of up to 3.3m (10.8ft) and to see them paragliding on the sea breeze is to be transported to a prehistoric era.

Seeing the albatross was a part of a tour that also included another rare species, the yellow-eyed penguin. Our first week we glimpsed one in what is a more typical fashion: while we huddled on the beach against the rain and wind, watching a single black speck tumbling out of the waves and waddling slowly up the adjacent hill. So imagine our amazement to see eleven at once, and from as close as two meters away!

On an adjacent beach to the penguins was a species with a better conservation story: fur seals. As the name suggests, these adorable and playful animals were once frequently hunted for their pelts. 

Fortunately, they are now protected and populations are doing well. Of course, the seal pups, as they are aptly called, have enough challenges with other sea mammals hunting them; we even saw some sea lions hanging around hoping for a seal dinner.

I admit, it is a strange experience taking a hike through the forest and not seeing any squirrels or chipmunks- and hardly any birds since most are drab colored and hide so well. It all adds to the unique Middle-Earth experience.