Wild New Zealand

What follows is a bit of natural history, with photos and short movies we took of wildlife we have seen here. You can also click on the embedded links for more information.

Lake Wanaka pano shot

New Zealand (Aotearoa, in Māori) became a continent 60-85 million years ago, before mammals evolved. This means all mice, rats, dogs, cats, sheep, antelope, etc. were introduced intentionally or unintentionally by humans when ancestors of the Māori arrived approximately 1000 years ago, and then Europeans in the early 1800's. 

Jeremy enjoying some tug-of-war with the island's most popular dog breed

Together, these new residents (people and the animals they brought) decimated approximately 45% of the native fauna, including the giant moa- a bird that dwarfed the ostrich, and its predator the Haast's eagle, which was large enough to carry off a small child according Māori oral history. 

 

Jeremy and friends with model of moa and egg

Before people arrived, New Zealand’s vertebrates (animals with spines, unlike insects or snails or other animals with exoskeletons) were exclusively those that could fly or swim across the ocean. Many of these pioneers had descendants that would be unique in the world - either retaining characteristics that were lost elsewhere, or by developing new traits, causing them to become new species. 

For example, the parrots in New Zealand are either green (keas) or brown (kakas), in stark contrast with their brightly colored new world relatives. Without mammal predators (who can’t see color), raptors such as the giant eagle (who can) exert the greatest selective pressure. It is way too dangerous to be bright red or blue!

Look at the wingspan on this big boy!

One of the most surprising animals we have seen so far is the royal albatross (click here for a live feed of the population we visited). This is one of the rare giant birds to survive here, albeit just barely. We saw them at a conservation area in Dunedin- they have an astonishing wingspan of up to 3.3m (10.8ft) and to see them paragliding on the sea breeze is to be transported to a prehistoric era.

Seeing the albatross was a part of a tour that also included another rare species, the yellow-eyed penguin. Our first week we glimpsed one in what is a more typical fashion: while we huddled on the beach against the rain and wind, watching a single black speck tumbling out of the waves and waddling slowly up the adjacent hill. So imagine our amazement to see eleven at once, and from as close as two meters away!

On an adjacent beach to the penguins was a species with a better conservation story: fur seals. As the name suggests, these adorable and playful animals were once frequently hunted for their pelts. 

Fortunately, they are now protected and populations are doing well. Of course, the seal pups, as they are aptly called, have enough challenges with other sea mammals hunting them; we even saw some sea lions hanging around hoping for a seal dinner.

I admit, it is a strange experience taking a hike through the forest and not seeing any squirrels or chipmunks- and hardly any birds since most are drab colored and hide so well. It all adds to the unique Middle-Earth experience.

Waterfalls, Bikes and Olympians

After careful consideration of the weather this week, we decided to take advantage of a sunny forecast and drove 3.5 hrs to the resort town of Wanaka. It's the local’s alternative to Queenstown, but it too has gotten more touristy in recent years.

I won't lie- the drive was hard; we were all bickering when we got there and glad to get out of the car. We stretched our legs window-shopping camping supplies stores and then had an expensive, sub-par burger from a take-out place, paying the extra dollar for one packet of Heinz ketchup!

The nice German tourist who took this for us said, "Now look like you are happy to be here!"

The next day made it all worthwhile, for that’s when we hiked to Rob Roy Glacier. The shuttle from town was pricey and bumpy, but a great way to see the surrounding countryside. There were lots of sheep, some cows and even deer, and rising out of the flat pasture were surprising mountains speckled with waterfalls! Yet I was most struck by the dramatic pruning of the hedgerows. 

The first part of the hike was flat, led past a scary bellowing and hoof-stomping black bull, and took us to a long, swinging foot bridge. 

Once across, it was an hour scramble up roots and rocks. It was tough going both physically and emotionally, but we were regularly startled into a good mood again by a new incredible view. 

An early stunning view from the trail

Can you believe the color of the glacier-fed stream?!?

The end of the path was truly breathtaking and washed away all of the angst of the previous 24 hours: the blue glaciers glowing at the top, feeding literally dozens of waterfalls.

The trek down was euphoric. Even Jeremy got a second wind and practically ran down.

The view from the bridge on the way down

This amazing day was topped off with Jeremy landing his first front flip on the trampoline that was at our motel (yes, you read that right- no litigious culture here).

The next day was now projected to be rainy; apparently the mountains make accurate forecasts impossible. But after breakfast there was a break in the clouds, so we decided to take a chance on mountain bike rentals. 

Despite Fran’s minor crash on the way back (she’s okay), it was super fun pedaling along the trail that bordered the lake.

My favorite part of the ride was an obligatory visit to #thatwanakatree: a fence post that had grown roots and later stranded in water as the dam raised the level of the lake. It’s the backdrop of wedding photos daily. Jeremy said that I acted with this tree like I do when I see puppies.

After returning our bikes, we returned downtown for a parade to welcome home Olympians Nico and Zoi; the first Kiwis to win medals in 26 years, and only the second and third ever for winter games for New Zealand! Both grew up and trained here and both are an astonishing 16 years old.

The enthusiastic but definitely small-town celebration was heart-warming. Cheering with the crowd, balloons in hand, for the first time, we actually started to feel like Kiwis.

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